While spring has come and gone, I just had to share this Daisy Halter Top pattern with you all because I am so in love with it and I am not quite ready to move onto fall weather gear yet! Each season has its perks with its various fun projects, but I think summer tops are my favorite things to design. They work up relatively quickly and you can get so much wear out of them. In the early fall/ late summer you could continue to rock your crop and halter tops with big cardigans and jeans! Crochet tops look good with anything, in my humble non-biased opinion of course 😉 This flower child inspired top will definitely get lots of wear out of it still this year before the snow comes! I hope you all enjoy this top as much as I do.

P.S. How cute is my baby girl?? She insisted that her furry golden presence would enhance my blog photos and I must say I agree!

Selling Your Crafts Tip: I wore a few tops I made myself to the festival and passed out cards with my business email on it to people when they asked about them. Never miss an opportunity to market your crochet items ladies! I used Canva.com to make up a quick business card and got business card cardstock offline. Super easy, cute, and affordable… just like this top I made 😉 Whenever you wear one of your items to the beach, a party, anywhere really, just throw a few cards in your back pocket and hand them out when people ask about your top! You’ll be surprised by how many cards you hand out that can lead to potential sales!

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*This post contains affiliate links meaning I receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you, when you purchase items through these links to help fund my costly yarn habits that allow me to keep posting patterns for you all. See my disclosure page for more information.*

Materials You Will Need

Yarn: I used Premier Yarns Home Cotton In their cream color, carrot color, and cornflower. I will link substitute brand yarns below. One skein should be enough of each color for a medium sized top. If you do a bigger top, you made need another skein of the main color yarn you choose. If you plan on wearing this top in the water you will want to use a cotton based yarn. Acrylic yarn does not dry as nicely or as easily as the cotton yarn would.

Crochet Hook: I used a 5mm crochet hook. If you use a lighter weighted yarn you’ll want to use the hook size suggested for that yarn.

Tapestry Needle: This is a yarn needle to weave in your ends.

Scissors: to cut your yarn. The scissors below are the ones I use and keep in my crafting bag. They are super sharp and compact enough to carry with me and my projects!


Buying Crochet Supplies Pro Tip: If you purchase any of your craft supplies at Joann Fabrics like I do sometimes, then you should really consider getting the Ibotta App on your phone. They have 10% cashback coupons for Joann’s as well as other cashback opportunities on certain yarn brands like Big Twist. They also have lots of other retailers on there but I pretty much only use the Joann rebates. I have gotten almost $106 back from just buying things I would have bought anyways by scanning my receipt in the Ibotta App. You can have the money sent to your paypal or use it to get gift cards (Joanns, Applebees, etc).

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Stitches Used in This Pattern

I will be using abbreviations (beginners check out my printable abbreviation cheat sheet) in this written pattern so here is a list of the names/abbreviations and brief directions for each:

Stitch (ST) – Next chain or stitch you are going to work into

Yarn Over (YO) – wrapping yarn around hook

Chain (CH) – After having an slip knot on your hook, YO and pull through your slip knot. That is a chain 1. YO again and pull through loop on hook. That is your chain 2, and so forth.

Slip Stitch (SS) – Insert hook into next chain/stitch and yarn over. Pull through chain/stitch and continue to pull through the loop on your hook.

Single Crochet (SC) – Insert hook into next chain/stitch and YO then pull through the chain/stitch. YO and pull through both loops on hook.

Half Double Crochet (HDC) – YO and insert hook into next chain/stitch and pull up a loop. YO and pull through all loops on hook.

Double Crochet (DC) – YO and insert hook into next chain/stitch and YO and pull back through the Chain/Stitch. YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through last two loops on hook.

Double Crochet 2 Together (DC2Tog) – Yarn over hook, insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop, making 3 loops on the hook.  Yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops.  YO hook insert in next st, pull up a loop, now leaving 4 loops on hook.  YO, pull through 2 loops, YO pull through last 3 loops.

Double Crochet 3 Together (DC3Tog) – Yarn over hook, insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop, making 3 loops on the hook.  Yarn over hook, pull through 2 loops.  YO hook insert in next st, pull up a loop, now leaving 4 loops on hook.  YO, pull through 2 loops. YO hook and insert into next st, pull up a loop, leaving 6 loops on hook. YO and pull through 2 loops, YO and pull through remaining four loops on hook. Check out this video tutorial for clarity.

Treble Crochet (TR) – Yarn over twice, insert hook into next ST and pull up a loop. YO and pull through top two loops, YO and pull through top two loops again, and finally YO and pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Picot (p) – Perform a single crochet, chain 3, and then slip stitch back into the front of the first single crochet.

 


 

If you love this daisy halter top you also may be interested in checking out my Peek-a-boo halter Top Pattern pictured below.

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 Daisy Halter Top Pattern

This Daisy halter top is made in a size medium. the other sizes will be written as follow M (S,L) for example Ch 4 (2,6). For a medium it would be ch4, ch2 for a small, and ch6 for a large.

CH 12 (10,14)

Round 1: HDC in the third CH from hook. HDC 1 in each Ch. In the last chain you will want to do two HDC in the same stitch. Ch1 and again do 2 more HDC’s in the same ST. Now on the back side of the CH you will do 1 SC in each ST down the row.  Refer to chart below for further clarity.

Start at black dot. Chain 12 and turn. HDC in 3rd CH from hook. HDC in every CH and HDC 2 in the 12th CH. CH 1, HDC 2 more in that same CH. Continue to HDC down the back side of the CH.

Round 2: CH 2 (does not count as first HDC) and turn. HDC in each HDC from the previous round until you get to the CH1 space in previous round. In that CH1 space, HDC, CH1, HDC and then do 1 HDC in each of the next HDC from previous row.

Round 3-11 (10,13): Continue round 2 until you reach your desired width and height for your cup keeping in mind that for the border you will be adding one more additional row of SC’s around the entire cup. For this step just hold the cup against yourself and stop adding rows when you feel there is sufficient coverage. The number of rounds listed are just a rough suggestion for sizing.

Bottom of cup: CH1 at the end of your last round and turn so you are working across the bottom of the cup. SC as evenly as possible along the bottom of the cup. *HINT: SC one for each row of HDC’s*

Repeat: Tie off and repeat exactly for the second cup making sure that you end up with the same number of SC along the bottom of both cups (I ended up with 36 SC on each cup), but do not tie off after the second cup for your daisy halter top.

Back Straps

Starting at the corner of your second cup where you didn’t tie off,

CH 80 and SS back down the CH.

SC across the bottom of the cup and when you reach the end just connect to the other cup with a SS and SC across the bottom until you reach the end.

Again CH 80 and SS back down the CH.





Trim and Neck straps

You can SS your way up two rows to reach the side of the cup or you can tie onto the corner of the cup where the picture below points to. You will do a series of sc’s and picots. As cup sizes will vary, so will the number of picots. You could do every other as a picot, or do 3-4 SC’s between picots. I will describe what I did in the next paragraph.

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Once you’ve tied on, SC in the next 4 stitches along the side of the cup, then make a picot(p). *SC in the next 4 stitches, make a picot(p).* Repeat between the *’s until you reach the top of the cup.It may not be exactly four stitches for a picot left depending on the number of chains you started with and the amount of rounds you made. That is fine, we will just match it to the other side when we get there.

Neck Strap: Once you reach the top of the cup CH80. Then SS all the way down the CH until you reach the first CH again.

Inside Cup Border: SS to the top stitch. Now you will want to see how many SC stitches you did on the outer side until you reach your top picot and do the same amount so the picots are at the same heights on either side of the cup.

For example if from the top of your cup you only have 3 SC then your Picot, on this side you will SC 3, p, then continue with the SC 4, p, SC 4, p until you reach the middle of the cups

When you reach the middle of the cups you can either just SC in the top stitch connecting the two cups, or you could center a picot  there like I did.  Again you will want to make sure the picots match with the other cup so match your bottom picot up and follow the sc4, p repeatedly. Repeat the directions for the inside cup and outside cup border and making your strap at the top of the second cup.

>>>If this seems too complicated and you would like a video representation of what I am talking about, check out my Simply Cute Bikini Top video tutorial and fast forward to the part where I add the border (around 9:25 minute marker). It is almost identical to this border I added on this top because lets be honest, I love the picot border style, but who doesn’t right??<<<


Adding Flower Power

Now we will make four flower granny squares that we will stitch together and then connect to the bottom of the top part we have just completed.

Start with a magic circle with your yellow yarn.

CH 4 this counts as your first DC and CH1.

*DC into the magic circle and CH1* repeat that six more times. You will then have 8DC’s and CH1’s including the first CH4 you started with. SS to the 3rd chain up of your starting chain and tie off.

Tie on to any CH1space with your blue yarn. CH3, then DC2tog in the same CH space. CH3. In the next Ch1sp, *DC3tog, CH 3* and repeat in each CH space until you reach your first CH3 and SS into the top chain and tie off. (Check out this tutorial for DC3tog if you need a little help!)

Tie onto any CH1space with your main color yarn and CH3. DC2tog in the CH1sp and CH2. Again in the same CH1space DC3tog and CH2. In every CH1sp you will do DC3tog, CH2, DC3tog, CH2,  all the way around and SS with the first CH3.

CH3 and do a DC in the same CH2sp, in the next CH 2 space do 3 HDC, in the next do three DC, in the next do 3 TR, CH2, 3TR for the corner.

Now Do 3 DC in the next CHsp, then 3 HDC in the next and then 3 DC in the next and again in the corner perform the 3TR, ch2, 3TR. You should now see the square forming. I made a little chart below to help show you in which chain spaces you will do which three stitches. SS to the beginning CH 3 and tie off.

Repeat this until you have made 4 flower granny squares.


Putting it all together

Now to complete your daisy halter top you will have to put it all together! Begin by sewing your granny squares together. You can use your yarn needle to stitch them together, or you can SC them together like I did. I put two granny squares on top of eachother (right sides together) and SC the two edges together (I used a smaller crochet hook for this part to help minimize the size of the seam).Do the same thing with the other two squares, then attach the four squares in the middle using the same tactic of putting them right sides together and SC along the edge.

Now line up the middle of the granny squares to the middle of the bralette. I used a litte peice of yarn to tie it in place. Then spread the ends out and make sure that your granny squares go out the same distance on both sides (tie them into a firm location with yarn again). Then choose one side and begin to attach the granny squares to the top making sure you are working on the wrong side of the top. You can use your yarn needle or SC them together to complete your daisy halter top.


 #FlowerChild

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I know fall is right around the corner but this Daisy halter top was me trying to hang onto summer for just a little while longer. I hope you all are just as happy with your finished projects as I am. This Daisy halter top made me smile from ear to ear, it’s just so fun and bright! If you have ANY QUESTIONS about this daisy halter top pattern, or about anything at all honestly, please please leave me a comment below and I will get back to you ASAP!

Also, if you would be willing, I would love for you to share your finished projects (and you wearing them out doing fun summer things!) on my blog’s Facebook Page! Or if you post on instagram tag me (@TaylorLynnCrochet) so I can see how awesome they turned out! Thank you so much! If you have any suggestions for future projects or tutorials please comment below!

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